Loop around your finger → hook through → pull up yarn, work 6 sc into the ring, cinch closed, slip stitch to join. Keep the ring loose at first; add one turning chain. sc mantra: insert, pull up a loop, pull through both loops. Marker on the first sc right away.

inc around (12) → [1 sc, inc] (18) → [2 sc, inc] offset (24) → [3 sc, inc] (30) → [4 sc, inc] offset (36) → [5 sc, inc] (42). On "offset" rounds: work 2 sc before the first inc, then continue normally. Count your V's after every round before moving on.

Find the middle increase of the last round, count 2 stitches to each side (6 total) — switch to white there: work each sc up to its last pull, then finish it with white. The color always changes on the last pull — that's what keeps edges crisp. Let the black yarn float behind loosely; pulled tight, it puckers the fabric.

Each round, the white section widens by one stitch on each side (both change points move one stitch outward); on Round 12, no increases in either color — same stitch count, same positions, just keep going up. Every color change uses the mid-stitch change.

[5 sc, 1 dec] all the way around; the color-change points stay the same — decrease in whichever color you're on. dec = pick up the front loops of 2 stitches, close as 1. Color changes still use the mid-stitch change.

Same stitch count this round; work white only to its 9th stitch, then switch back to black — the white shrinks because the change point moved, not because of decreases. The black section is about 14 stitches; slip stitch to the first stitch to close. Watch out: this round is easily mistaken for a decrease round.

Start with 2 sc, 1 dec (the offset first group), then [4 sc, 1 dec] normally; decrease in the white section too. Offsetting keeps the decreases from lining up into a visible ridge. You should have exactly 2 sc left at the end of the round, mirroring the first group.

[3 sc, 1 dec] around; at the 3rd white stitch, switch to black and finish the round in black. The white yarn can be cut here — leave a 15 cm tail. You should have a plump egg-shaped body with a complete white belly.

Without cutting the yarn, work upward from the body's closing round: into half loops only, [3 sc, 1 inc] around. Every stitch of this round goes into a half loop — that's what makes the head stand up on the body. Change colors as usual at the white section.

[4 sc, 1 inc] with the first group offset; change colors at the increase spots in the white section. Then stuff a little early to help the shape set — stuff in small handfuls, shaping as you go. The head disc should end up wider than the body's opening.

[5 sc, 1 inc]; every color change finishes one stitch early. Then a few even rounds, changing colors where the video does to form the face. Clip the marker at dead center — it keeps left and right symmetrical. After the last switch to black, the white section stops growing.

[5 sc, dec] → [4 sc, dec] (offset) → [3 sc, dec] → [2 sc, dec]; where the previous round had an increase, simply skip one stitch. Cinch the final opening all at once, secure with two stitches nearby, and stuff. The hat covers the top, so the closure doesn't need to be perfect.

Magic ring 6 sc → 6 increases → 2 rounds even → 6 decreases → stuff lightly, cinch closed. Only a pinch of stuffing — a knotted yarn tail inside works too. You should have a thumb-sized white ball.

Red yarn, chain 3 as the turning chain, then one dc in every stitch; then [1 dc, inc] → [2 dc, inc] → [3 dc, inc] so the hat widens as it grows. dc mantra: yarn over → insert, pull up (3 loops) → pull through 2 → pull through 2. dc is twice as tall as sc — the hat grows fast; don't lose count of rounds.

On the last stitch, switch to white; work 2 even rounds of sc for the brim; sew on the pompom, place the hat on the penguin and secure it. Position the hat with stitch markers first; sew only when you're happy. Weave in every tail before snipping. Done!