Loop yarn around your finger → insert hook → pull up a loop; work 6 sc into the ring, pull the center tight, slip stitch to join. Single crochet mantra: insert, pull up, pull through both loops. Mark the first sc with a stitch marker right away; remove it only after inserting for the slip stitch.

Inc in every st (12) → sc 1, inc (18) → sc 2, inc offset (24) → sc 3, inc (30) → sc 4, inc offset (36) → sc 5, inc (42). "Offset" round: work 2 sc before the first increase, then follow the normal rhythm. Don't mistake the slip stitch and turning chain for real stitches — read the V's first.

One sc in every stitch, no increases for 7 rounds — the count stays 42. Count up from the last increase round: one, two, three… seven. These 7 rounds curve the disk into a sphere — they give the head its depth.

Sc 5, dec (36) → sc 4, dec offset (30) → sc 3, dec (24). Cut a 15 cm tail, fasten off, set aside. Decrease = pick up the front loops of two stitches, finish as one. No stuffing yet — that happens when we sew the head to the body.

Magic ring 6 sc → 6 inc → sc 2, inc around → 4 even rounds, fasten off. Repeat for the second leg. The first two rounds are exactly like the top of the head — you already know this. Hold the two legs side by side; continue only if they match.

Chain 2, slip stitch into the first stitch of the other leg to join; work sc all around both legs, working into half of each chain on the bridge. The joining slip stitch is not a sc — don't count it; a marker helps. The 2 chains read clearer from the back — work into one side of each chain.

From the joining round, crochet evenly with no increases or decreases — count from the very first round at the bottom and stop at round 18. No shaping at all in this stretch — perfect TV-watching crochet. Each round still closes with a slip stitch + turning chain; the marker travels with the first stitch.

Stuff both legs with a moderate amount of fiberfill — small handfuls, shaping as you go. Round 19: work 2 sc, 1 dec first (the offset), then sc 4, dec around — 20 sc remain. The round ends with exactly 2 sc, mirroring the offset first group.

Work 2 even rounds → sc 3, dec around → 1 more even round, then fasten off. The even rounds are buffers so the neck narrows gradually, not abruptly. The top of the body should close in like the neck of a bottle.

Thread the darning needle with the head's tail. Match back-side positions on head and body, sew stitch-for-stitch all the way around; then sew a second round in the opposite direction for strength. Skipping every other stitch on round two is fine — firmness is what matters. Run the tail out through the neck and weave it in.

Red yarn: chain 35, sc back starting from the 2nd chain from the hook; 3 sc in the last chain to turn the corner, then work back along the back bumps of the chain, adding stitches at both ends; sl st, fasten off leaving a tail. Small piece: chain 11, same method — sew or glue it over the scarf join. Chain loosely — the return pass is much easier.

Magic ring 5 sc → 5 inc → 2 even rounds; fasten off with a long sewing tail. Fold the piece and sew it onto the top sides of the head. Pin the position first: symmetry is the goal. Watch the "skip one stitch, skip two" placement in the video — it gives the ears their natural curve.

Magic ring 5 sc → increases → even rounds up to round 8; stuff at round 9; round 10: decrease twice, fasten off. Sew stitch-for-stitch to the middle of each side of the body, seam line down. Fewer stitches at the end make sewing easier — don't skip the decreases. If the needle won't pass through, go halfway and turn — work in segments.

Blush: with 2 strands of pink, magic ring 6 sc, sl st, fasten off, glue to the cheeks. Nose: white, magic ring 5 sc → 5 inc → sc 1, inc → 1 even round; attach to the face. Expression: embroider eyes and mouth with 2 strands of black. "2 strands" = split the yarn into two plies, or hold two strands together. Park stitch markers on the face to plan the expression before you sew.